Comme des Garçons' Spring/Summer 1997 collection, widely nicknamed the 'lumps and bumps' collection, challenged the fashion industry's idealized silhouette by fastening large padded forms and fabric bulges to the body. Instead of narrowing, lengthening, or eroticizing the figure according to conventional couture logic, the garments produced strange protrusions that appeared to deform the wearer's anatomy. The collection's unsettling visual language became one of Kawakubo's clearest assaults on the idea that fashion must make the body more conventionally beautiful. Its influence extended beyond clothing when Kawakubo collaborated with choreographer Merce Cunningham on the 1997 performance project 'Scenario,' translating the collection's distorted volumes and unstable sense of bodily proportion into movement. The work is remembered less as a commercial scandal than as a deliberately disorienting piece of fashion-performance history.
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AI concept artworkArchive Record · 1990s
The 1997 'Lumps and Bumps' Collection: When Comme des Garçons Turned the Body into an Optical Distortion
Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons / 1990s
Comme des Garçons' Spring/Summer 1997 collection, widely nicknamed the 'lumps and bumps' collection, challenged the fashion industry's idealized silhouette by fastening large padded forms and fabric bulges to the body. Instead of narrowing, lengthening, or eroticizing the figure according to conventional couture logic, the garments produced strange protrusions that appeared to deform the wearer's anatomy. The collection's unsettling visual language became one of Kawakubo's clearest assaults on the idea that fashion must make the body more conventionally beautiful. Its influence extended beyond clothing when Kawakubo collaborated with choreographer Merce Cunningham on the 1997 performance project 'Scenario,' translating the collection's distorted volumes and unstable sense of bodily proportion into movement. The work is remembered less as a commercial scandal than as a deliberately disorienting piece of fashion-performance history.
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