For his 1993 Central Saint Martins graduate collection, Hussein Chalayan created garments that were literally buried in a backyard and exhumed shortly before presentation. The clothes emerged marked by dirt and decay, turning the conventional fashion debut into something resembling an archaeological dig or ritual of resurrection. Chalayan supplied an accompanying text explaining the burial process, framing the damaged garments as meditations on life, death, urban decay, and the passage of time rather than as conventional luxury products. The macabre experiment attracted the attention of Browns, the influential London fashion boutique, which borrowed the collection for its window display. The episode established Chalayan's reputation for treating clothing as conceptual evidence—objects that could carry histories of displacement, destruction, and rebirth.
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AI concept artworkArchive Record · 1990s
The Exhumed Dresses of The Tangent Flows
Hussein Chalayan / 1990s
For his 1993 Central Saint Martins graduate collection, Hussein Chalayan created garments that were literally buried in a backyard and exhumed shortly before presentation. The clothes emerged marked by dirt and decay, turning the conventional fashion debut into something resembling an archaeological dig or ritual of resurrection. Chalayan supplied an accompanying text explaining the burial process, framing the damaged garments as meditations on life, death, urban decay, and the passage of time rather than as conventional luxury products. The macabre experiment attracted the attention of Browns, the influential London fashion boutique, which borrowed the collection for its window display. The episode established Chalayan's reputation for treating clothing as conceptual evidence—objects that could carry histories of displacement, destruction, and rebirth.
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