Comme des Garçons' Spring/Summer 1997 collection became known as the ''lumps and bumps' collection because Kawakubo padded garments with bulky fabric and rounded forms that appeared to grow unpredictably from the body. Instead of producing the narrow waist, elongated leg, or controlled shoulder normally demanded by luxury fashion, the collection concealed the anatomy beneath strange protrusions, turning the model into an unstable, almost mutant silhouette. The designs were not a supernatural spectacle, but they were deliberately unsettling: the body seemed swollen, misshapen, or transformed by clothing. The collection's ideas later fed into ''Scenario,' a 1997 collaboration between Kawakubo and New York choreographer Merce Cunningham, extending the experiment from fashion into movement and performance. Its lasting significance lies in how aggressively it challenged the assumption that fashion must beautify, flatter, or preserve the recognizable human form.
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AI concept artworkArchive Record · 1990s
The 'Lumps and Bumps' Collection: Rei Kawakubo Distorts the Human Silhouette
Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons / 1990s
Comme des Garçons' Spring/Summer 1997 collection became known as the ''lumps and bumps' collection because Kawakubo padded garments with bulky fabric and rounded forms that appeared to grow unpredictably from the body. Instead of producing the narrow waist, elongated leg, or controlled shoulder normally demanded by luxury fashion, the collection concealed the anatomy beneath strange protrusions, turning the model into an unstable, almost mutant silhouette. The designs were not a supernatural spectacle, but they were deliberately unsettling: the body seemed swollen, misshapen, or transformed by clothing. The collection's ideas later fed into ''Scenario,' a 1997 collaboration between Kawakubo and New York choreographer Merce Cunningham, extending the experiment from fashion into movement and performance. Its lasting significance lies in how aggressively it challenged the assumption that fashion must beautify, flatter, or preserve the recognizable human form.
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